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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.